Las Caletillas Holidays

For a true taste of Tenerife, away from the bustle of the modern resorts, this town’s just the ticket. It’s rare to hear English spoken anywhere, and the offering of bars and restaurants is Spanish to the core. Even the hotels blend in with the trademark milk-and-cereal colour scheme, so it’s easy to slip into the local way of life.

Sprawling swathes of sand aren’t this town’s style – the sunbathing set-up’s much more intimate here. Petite coves are imprinted along the shoreline. Some come with a pretty promenade that links them together, while others are more out of the way. And unlike some of the Caribbean copycat beaches further north, these sand-and-pebble sweeps are a striking shade of volcanic black.

Look to the town next door, Candelaria, and you’ll see one of the island’s most historically significant towns. The ornate Basilica of Candelaria, which is dressed with murals and statues of the Virgin Mary, is set on a square beside the waterfront. Religious and culture-seeking visitors come to see the white-and-terracotta building, which is fronted by nine statues of the ancient aboriginal kings of Tenerife – the Guanches.